3.06.2010

Sessions in the Sun

Though the weather may have been great, blue skies tend not to matter much in the icy canyon that is Newlin Creek. Unless you're fifteen years old and have a metabolism that more closely resembles nuclear fusion. In that case, throw on some shorts and boulder, son.

 
  
  

Though the temperature easily dipped below 40 and no one else climbed, the young Shay-Nemirow fearlessly cast aside the safety of warmer garments and made several worthy attempts on The Nickness. I think it's safe to say the ol' finger injury isn't slowing him down anymore. My attempts on The Nickness were not nearly as worthy, however, and the climb has now established itself high atop the Nemisis List. For whatever reason this climb shuts me down hard; I've tried it to some degree on seven or eight occasions and have never managed the first move. I know what I'm doing wrong each time and I am very aware of what I need to do to do the move, I just can't seem to bring any of that information into play when I try it. Mental battles like this can be supremely frustrating, but I enjoy the difficulty of working through them. Sending wouldn't be nearly as rewarding if everything came without challenge. Either way, it was inspiring to see Asher climb so well on the problem.

Those that are interested in Newlin, be warned: there is a lot of snow, and though many of the problems are climbable, almost none are topoutable. Too, the road to the parking lot is a quagmire the likes of which I have never seen before.

2 comments:

  1. sorry it wasn't more gooder for you guys. i have similar first move frustrations with mongolian cosmonaut. i have now done the "stand" start ~36 times... with a 90% rate of success. i have never stuck the first move for the proper start. never. wtf?

    then, anger management, purity control, every climb in colorado over v9, resonated, and every remaining project in crumblehood.

    SHUT. DOWN.


    ugghhh.

    contemplating quitting again because i disagree: projecting takes the fun out of climbing. screw challenges. life is hard enough. climbing is meant to be all about pissing on something for once..... for one thing in the grind of your week to be easy. because nothing *else* is easy. which means that with all the tales of fail with climbing lately, *nothing* is easy. which is depressing.

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  2. uhhh, don't know what to say...that last paragraph is pretty grim, jaeger, even for you. maybe you should have a bowl of ice cream or go to the pet store and croon over fresh puppies or something.

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